What does “100% silk satin” tell you?
The yarn in this swatch is silk, a natural fiber from a silkworm cocoon. In a satin weave, lengths of yarn float over other yarns at the surface. The floats give the face its smoothness and sheen. Polyester yarn can also be woven into satin, so a ticket that says only “satin” leaves the fiber unidentified. Museum of Fine Arts Boston on silk and Canadian Conservation Institute on woven structures.
Where do you want the light to fall?
A highlight across the fold of a cowl can be the reason for choosing satin. The same light can pick out a ripple at the side seam. Let the detail you care about determine the size and kind of cutting you request.
| Design detail | Swatches to request | A trial you can compare |
|---|---|---|
| A deep, fluid cowl | A silk satin and another satin of similar weight, with fiber content identified | Drape both over the same neckline form. Look at the depth of the fold and the highlight along its edge. |
| A slip with panel seams and a quiet surface | A matte silk crepe and a silk satin in similar colors | Sew the same panel seam. Does its allowance show through to the face? |
| A pale dress to wear on its own | Two weights of the preferred cloth in the intended shade | Place each swatch over the same underlayer in daylight. How clearly can you see the color and seams beneath it? |
Bias, straps and the moving hem
Mark the grainline on each pattern piece. Cut both trials in the same orientation and use the planned strap attachment and neckline finish. Hang the samples for the same period before measuring the hem at the front, back and side seams.
At the fitting, lower one strap slightly and restore it. Record the strap length that gives the cowl its intended shape. A short video of the wearer walking, sitting and turning under a fixed light will catch a highlight that a still photo can miss.
A sample request for an unlined cowl
“Please quote 100% silk satin for a bias-cut midi slip in the enclosed shade. Match the weight of swatch S2, mark the face and send a cutting large enough to sew the unlined cowl.”
If you would consider another fiber, ask for a separate option with its own weight, finish and proposed care. Tag the face of the approved swatch at the edge. Send a photo of the inside neckline and a full-length fitting photo with it so the sample maker can see both the construction and the fall of the dress. Silk fabrics and custom silk clothing.