Will the panel fit between the selvages?
A fabric listed at 140 cm wide might measure only 136 cm between the edges you can cut into. Ask the supplier for the usable width. Have the pattern maker lay out the wrap skirt at 136 cm before agreeing on an order length. ASTM distinguishes full width from usable width in its measuring method. ASTM fabric-width method
The cutting layout, also called a marker, needs the actual size breakdown. For a stripe, include its repeat and mark any matching points, such as the center front. For a one-way floral print, show which way the flowers should face.
Two rolls quoted in different units
| Supplier’s figure | How to read it |
|---|---|
| Grams per square meter (GSM) | A square meter of 120 GSM fabric weighs 120 g. Record the finished weight with the weave and finish. |
| Momme for silk | One momme is approximately 4.34 GSM, so 16 momme is roughly 69 GSM. Judge drape and sheen on the swatch. |
| Price per linear yard or meter | One yard is 0.9144 m. Divide the price per yard by 0.9144 to get the price per meter. Keep the currency and usable width alongside the price. |
At $10 per yard, a fabric costs about $10.94 per meter. If the two rolls differ in usable width, price the cloth for one finished garment from a marker for each width. The lower price per meter may require a longer cut. JB Silks on momme and NIST conversion factors.
From a cutting to a sewn sample
- Label the swatch with its code, color, composition, weight and date. Lay one layer over the intended underwear color, then double it at a facing. Does the edge show through?
- Request enough length to cut in the intended direction. Sew the planned neckline and seam finish. On a bias-cut skirt, check the hem on the finished sample before settling the pattern.
- Try the proposed care treatment. Keep a signed swatch and request a cutting from the production lot to approve the color and feel before bulk cutting.
A worked quote for 48 bias-cut skirts
Here is an example a buyer could send to a mill.
“Please quote ivory silk crêpe de Chine for 48 bias-cut midi skirts. We need 100% silk, 16 momme and at least 136 cm usable width. Quote a 4 m sample cut and 100 m of bulk cloth separately, in USD per meter. Our marker uses 1.90 m per skirt, or 91.2 m before allowances. What lot length and minimum per color can you offer? Please give cutting and shipping dates, freight to Melbourne and a cutting from the reserved lot for color approval.”
The extra 8.8 m is an allowance in this example. Set your own from the actual shrinkage, defects and cutting layout. When asking about one of our silks, include the swatch reference and usable width with the quantity. Silk fabrics and fabric inquiries.